The three pillars of success

When we studied what Asia’s Emerging 30 beauty brands
have in common, three things stood out:

Greater precision and sophistication in skincare benefits are driving new demands. The Emerging 30 are not only addressing these with sharper, more specific solutions – they’re creating them. They’re also very effectively communicating this, with a promise that’s clear and sharp.

Brightening is the biggest beauty segment in Asia, especially in Indonesia, and there’s still room to grow. The trend is evolving, with a shift in messaging from ‘whitening’ and ‘perfect skin’ to ‘radiance’ and ‘healthy skin’. Many brands now create brightening products that tackle multiple attributes – such as pores, firmness, and hydration – in one go.

Skintific

CRP growth +2.8%

Skintific is growing fast in both Indonesia and Thailand. The brand is diversifying within the brightening space, emphasising a range of different active ingredients and benefits. For instance, its MSH Niacinamide cream is designed to fade dark spots within seven days, and deliver a more radiant complexion within 14 days.

Early anti-ageing

Whereas the anti-ageing segment used to target the over-40 age group, we’re increasingly seeing products that are targeting the early signs. Growth momentum is strong across diverse age groups across Asia, even the 18 to 39 cohort.

Here, multi-benefit products and communications are helping to lower the emotional barrier that could prevent young consumers engaging with the segment. In China, anti-ageing eye cream is very popular, even among young people, because it also claims to fix the dark circles that can make them look tired. Marubi’s Little Red Pen Eye Cream is a good example.

Sungboon Editor

In South Korea, pore care had previously focused on clearing and tightening, to address sensitivity or acne. Now, brands such as Sungboon Editor are talking about different sizes and features of pores, associated with early sign of ageing. Its Green Tomato Pore Lifting Ampoule promises to address sunken pores, vertical pores (losing firmness), horizontal pores (excessive sebum) and melanin pores (pigmentation).

Skincare infused make-up

Make-up is evolving too, creating consumer demand for products that look after their skin. Brands are promoting strong, clear key claims – putting the skincare benefits front and centre in their marketing.

They are providing detailed communications that define what ingredients do; for instance ‘this foundation contains ceramide. which strengthens the skin barrier like a facial skincare product’.

Parnell

The South Korean brand puts the skin soothing and calming effect of its Cicamanu Serum Cushion foundation first, even before its coverage or long-lasting attributes. This has attracted many new buyers to the cushion format: 49% of its value growth has come from new entrants to the category.

The sharp offers that are helping the Emerging 30 to make their names are down to two factors: what ingredients they use, and how they get them into the skin.

Classic ingredients such as vitamin C, collagen, and ceramides are still loved by consumers, and remain highly relevant. But among emerging brands, retinol, niacinamide, and PDRN are rising fast in popularity. Familiar ingredients are also being recombined in new ways to create novelty.

Communication around active ingredients is central. Brands frequently highlight ingredients above the benefits – even within the product name itself – as consumers feel increasingly comfortable with ‘science talk’.

PDRN is a DNA-based regeneration ingredient that helps rejuvenate skin and improve elasticity. It is increasingly used in the ‘firming and plumping’ narrative. High-growth brands, especially in South Korea and Japan, are positioning retinol and PDRN as mild enough for daily use without irritating skin, but powerful enough for real anti-ageing benefits.

Niacinamide can be used in diverse ways. Brands are launching standalone products that feature it as a solo ingredient, while those in mature markets are integrating it in powerful combinations with other actives, such as tranexamic acid, to meet varied consumer desires in brightening, spot care, or barrier repair.

MUJIRUSHI RYOHIN

In Japan, Mujirushi Ryohim offers a gentle retinol line at an affordable price, made with 100% naturally derived ingredients. This enables consumers to easily make products such as its Retinol Serum part of their daily routine.

Active ingredients only work if they reach where they need to be in the skin. Emerging brands are leveraging professional derma care concepts to ensure products deliver on their promise – and also to bring in newness.

Today, dermatology treatments, procedures and devices are inspiring and influencing at-home beauty. Brands are borrowing terminology, protocols, and formats to increase the perception of credibility and efficacy. Consumers are responding very positively to the proof that it works.

The innovations resonate with a growing base of people who have experienced advanced professional care, and want to extend the effects by using a product at home. All are designed to help ingredients to absorb, and carry then deep into the skin.

Popular delivery methods include:

Particles and encapsulation – breaking down ingredients into smaller molecules or nano-particles, and encapsulating them so they penetrate deeply without becoming degraded.
Boosters – to be used alongside main beauty routines to help absorption, accelerate effects, or target specific concerns. Boosting serum is gaining traction among Japanese consumers.
Spicules – microneedle-like natural silica particles. In addition to enhancing permeability and amplifying active delivery, these physically stimulate the skin in a controlled way so users feel results quickly.

Lululun

Japanese sheet-mask brand Lululun uses a premium ‘derma-effect’ line to appeal to consumers who want that ‘clinical experience’ at home. Its Hydra EX mask offers daily anti-ageing care through the regenerative properties of exosomes and glutathione. The Hydra V mask is inspired by the HIFU (high intensity focused ultrasound) facial procedure.

Ilso

In South Korea, the main claim of Ilso’s HA-Shot Booster Serum is the use of spicules to deliver an extra absorption effect. Users reported feeling a mild burning sensation, and saw noticeable improvements in skin texture the next day. This combination of immediate sensation and visible effect has helped to reinforce credibility.

Delivery technology

Devices are also part of the delivery story, used to move the active ingredients into the right skin layer. In Korea, around four in 10 people now own a beauty device, according to Worldpanel beauty U&A data for the first half of 2025.

As devices become more mainstream, skincare brands must consider how well their products work with them – for instance through pairing technology with cosmetics.

MediTherapy

CRP growth +296%

MediTherapy offers solutions that combine mini-devices with creams and essences, helping to bring device-care into everyday routines. The brand is growing tremendously within Northeast Asia, including Thailand. Its Medi Therapy Immotox Peptide Shot Cream offers skin suction, EMS (electrical muscle stimulation) massage and lifting benefits in a single package.